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Desert Guest
Ranches | Hotels | Camping
Wickenburg - the Old West
Whatever faint glimmer of memory remains of the Old
West of movie myth, it is brought back by a visit to this
region in west-central Arizona. This is not the lawless
Wild West of Tombstone, nor is it the staid and genteel
Spanish-colonial ambience of Tucson.
This the real thing -- the West of Mexican
caballeros riding across the upland range, chasing herds
of cattle on ranches which stretched to the horizon; and
later of cowboys who came after the miners, herding
dogies on drives to the nearest railway town at Maricopa.
And yet, there's a little bit of Tombstone in Wickenburg,
just as there is a Spanish colonial heritage. It's just
that the land is so immense, and made for riding, that a
visitor's impressions stick on ranching. Today, that
theme is carried out in a half dozen guest ranches, where
people go to experience what lingers of the real West.
More Recent History
The story of Wickenburg -- at least the
recent chapters -- began with Spanish conquistadors who
came to the area, bringing with them horses (caballos),
and a new athletic way of riding which they taught the
local Apache Indians. These caballeros, gentlemen on
horseback, were the first white people to see the immense
desert vistas north of the Mexican border and south of
the Mogollon Rim. They were followed by Mexicans and then
prospectors found ore in the hills surrounding
Wickenburg, creating a series of gold rushes. Little
towns were built on the mountain slopes--most of them
closing with a year or two--and the life of the
caballeros was never the same. Large-scale ranching
became the successor to mining in the area.
A logical extension of the cattle industry
in the early years of the 20th century was the dude
ranch, and Wickenburg has long been known as the world's
capital of dude ranching (now more civilly called "guest
ranching"). That tradition continues today, with a dozen
uplands guest ranches offering visitors a chance to see
the Old West as we imagine it might have been. Of course
some modern variations are included in some guest ranch
programs, including golfing, tennis, mountain hiking, and
nature study. So it's really the New Old West, in an
atmosphere which retains the romance of the pioneer era
but makes it a little more comfortable than either the
Spanish caballeros or the ranch cowboys would have ever
experienced.
The Arizona Uplands is high desert,
the landscape of the joshua tree, saguaro, cholla and
ironwood, situated south of the Date Creek Range, west of
the Hieroglyphic Mountains and east of the Buckskin and
Harcuvar ranges. This is the most northerly section of
the Upper Sonoran desert.
The Hassayampa
Through this region flows the Hassayampa
River. For the most part, it's a typical desert river,
more of a deep wash than a flowing stream, moving
underground for much of its 100-mile journey from the
Bradshaw Mountains to join the Gila near Phoenix. The
source of the Hassayampa is across the summit from
Prescott, a series of little mountain creeks which drain
the snowmelt in the spring. The river picks up water from
springs along the way. It's course is mainly unseen, as
it flows deep under the visible stream of river rock.
Here and there it comes to the surface (or is it the
other way around) and when it does, magical things happen
in this hot dry desert meant otherwise for cacti and
sagebrush. Wherever the Hassayampa comes to the surface
of the land, cottonwoods and willows grow, next to
bosques of mesquite. Each of the habitats
(cottonwood/willow and mesquite bosque) attracts a raft
of birds and animals which live in a symbiotic
relationship with the plants. Other animals come off the
desert to join in enjoying the benefits of all this
water.
When you cross the river in summer, over a
bridge in Wickenburg, you will see this course of
large-size river stone winding through the community. A
mile south of town, the river appears for a few miles,
nurturing an amazing range of plants, animals and birds.
Beside the stream is a former guest ranch--one of the
first in the area--opened in 1913 and called the Garden
of Allah. This oasis of a different kind is now one of
the prime nature preserves owned and operated by The
Nature Conservancy. It protects the river and its
riparian habitat. Less than five percent of the riverside
desert habitats which existed in Arizona before
settlement now remain. Great desert rivers -- like the
Gila -- are now funneled into aqueducts to supply
drinking, industrial and lawn water for the state's
growing urban areas. As the riparian areas have
disappeared, so have the birds which lived in or visited
the cottonwood / willow groves. Animals of the desert
dropped in numbers, having no life-giving water on which
to survive. The protection of a little bit of open river
near Wickenburg is not only a demonstration project in
stream protection, but a vanguard of the type of wildlife
protection which needs to be carried out by governments
and private agencies alike.
For nature lovers, the Hassayampa River
Preserve is an important visiting place, on a trip to
or near Phoenix. Spend a day or two at the preserve with
a not-quite-natural-but close-enough ranch vacation, and
you have the best of both worlds: great wildlife viewing
- -on the open desert and in a very special riparian
habitat -- with the comfort of a ranch home.
Other Attractions
The end of mining was a blow to Wickenburg,
but it was also developing as a ranching center,
supplying the needs of the area ranchers. Other gold
finds had been made north of Wickenburg, at Congress
Junction, and the cowtown continued to grow. By the
Spring of 1895, a spur railway came from Prescott, to the
mines at Congress, and Wickenburg . Hotels and saloons
were constructed on Railroad Street, and a Wells Fargo
freight office was opened.
Aside from the substantial buildings on
Railroad Street, most of the other structures--the ice
company, a pool hall, barber and bath shops, and the
livery stable, were very basic wooden buildings,
constructed without artistic design or any thought of
permanence. Several pioneer families built more
long-lasting homes out of cement blocks or wood and
stucco. The bank and school were more sturdy, built of
red brick. As Congress and other nearby mining towns were
developed and soon closed, Wickenburg managed to hold on,
becoming--in the 1930s--the "Dude Ranch Capital of the
West."
The classic railway station is now the
town's visitor information center, and the Chamber of
Commerce office. The relaxed town still serves the
needs of the area ranchers, but also draws tourists who
come to see what remains of the Old West. The Chamber
offers a walking tour map which will take you to all of
the historic buildings in the town.
The Desert Caballeros Western Museum
features an extensive series of displays on the early
settlement of the area, along with an outstanding
collection of western American sculpture and painting.
Art exhibitions change throughout the year. Located at 21
North Frontier, between the highway and Railroad Street,
the museum's open hours are Monday through Saturday
10a.m. to 5p.m. and Sunday 12 noon to 4 p.m.
Desert Guest
Ranches
As the world capital of dude ranching, the
Wickenburg area offers a range of guest ranch
experiences. You may stay in a bunkhouse at a
small cattle ranch and take part in the daily
ranching operations -- eating with the cowboys,
herding cattle, and repairing fences.
On the other end of the scale, you can stay
at a deluxe ranch resort, have gourmet meals in
a dining room, have cocktails in a lounge with a
view, bask by the swimming pool, play golf on a
championship course, play tennis, rent a Jeep to
tour the desert, and maybe have an evening
desert horseback ride to a chuckwagon dinner.
All of the above are available. What is new
to guest ranching is a new emphasis on nature
appreciation and study which has been introduced
to the Wickenburg ranch scene. The following
ranches offer different things for different
people, depending on your interests.
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Rancho de los Caballeros
1551 South Vulture Mine Road
With its own championship golf course and a long
history in offering ranch vacations to visitors
from across the country, this distinctive guest
ranch is both a working cattle ranch, and a
vacation tradition for hundreds of families.
Many of the annual guests have returned for many
years to this oasis on the Wickenburg desert.
The ranch was first built in 1947 and 1948, not
only as a guest ranch, but as a place where
Dallas Gant, his financial partners in the
ranch, and others could build homes on the
desert tract. Later, it led to the development
of a fine golf course. The resort opened on
December 15, 1948 when a honeymoon couple
arrived. The cattle business began later, in
1953.
The ranch became so popular that an airstrip
was built in 1951 (later to be superceded by the
Wickenburg airport). It's now part of the golf
course. Homes have been built around the
perimeter of the ranch lodge and casita-style
buildings. The original swimming pool, a marvel
for its day, is still a focal point with the
main lodge curving around the pool deck. Horse
rides are available with expert wranglers to
conduct a desert tour.
The ranch is open October through May.
Accommodations are in 73 rooms and suites, all
within a three-minute walk of the main lodge
building which houses the dining room, a large
living room with fireplace, and saloon. Deluxe
suites accommodate up to six people, and are
used to for small conferences. There is a full
bar operation in the saloon, and drinks may be
ordered with lunch and dinner.
The golf club is a membership operation, with
ranch guests invited to play for pay. It is
rated as one of the top courses in the West. It
plays 7,025 yards, par 72, from the championship
tees. Three sets of tees are available. Four
acrylic tennis courts are located near the lodge
and horse corrals.Trap and skeet shooting are
available on a private range. There are two
guided rides daily over the five square miles of
open desert used by the ranch. Breakfast, lunch
and dinner cookouts are also offered.
Rates range from about $300 per day for two
people (daily rate during October/January, and
April/May), and slightly more during the high
season (February/April), with about $75 added if
a suite with a living room is booked. Golf
packages are also available. These are American
plan rates, with meals supplied but with
horseback riding and golfing extra. Jackets are
required by men for dinner. The ranch is on
Vulture Mine Road.
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Merv Griffin's Wickenburg
Inn
Open 11 Months Except August, this sprawling
ranch has 4700 Acres. There Are 53 casitas And 9
lodge Rooms. The inn operates on A full American
Plan. Included In the room rate are daily
horseback Rides with the ranch's wranglers.
All-day rides are available for an additional
charge. Tehhis is a favorite activity here and
the Arts & Crafts Studios offer hundreds of
crafts to make -- for adults and kids. There are
haywagon rides to cowboy cookouts On tuesday and
saturday with special entertainment.
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Kay El Bar Ranch
Located north of Wickenburg, via Rincon Road,
beside the underground Hassayampa River, the Kay
El Bar is a small, comfortable guest ranch, on
which you can have a very satisfying vacation.
Now owned and operated by John and Nancy Loftis,
the ranch opened in 1926 and is on the National
and State Registers of Historic Places.
Horse riding is the the main activity -- over
trails which reach into the hills above the
Hassayampa River. This is expansive countryside,
with rolling and sometimes steep hills as far as
the eye can see. Wildlife is seen regularly,
including javelina, jackrabbits, deer, coyote,
and roadrunners. Because of its comfortable size
-- a maximum of 24 guests -- the ranch provides
a warm, intimate environment.
Lodging is on the American plan, with all
meals and riding included. There are rooms in
the lodge, with private bath, and in a
two-bedroom cottage (Homestead House) which
contains two baths, and a living room with
fireplace. Newly-added are two casitas with
bedroom and bath. The lodge has a living room
with beamed ceiling, and rooms have cowboy
spreads on the beds. Each ranch meal offers a
different experience, and the range of meals
includes cowboy cookouts at the picnic area,
picnics on the trail, mesquite grilled meat or
shrimp for dinner, and impressive breakfasts.
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Flying E Ranch
With Vulture Peak rising in the near-distance,
the Flying E is another small guest ranch
operation which focuses on riding and friendly
service. Ranch staff members call their visitors
"guest hands." This is a working cattle ranch
and the business of taking care of cows goes on
as other activities are staged. In addition to
riding horses on the open desert, other
activities can include tennis, swimming, soaking
in a heated whirlpool, shuffleboard, table
tennis, horseshoes, and golf at one of two
nearby courses. The Vulture Mountain area is a
great spot for rockhounding. Cookouts are
provided, including breakfast, and chuckwagon
dinners in the desert. Rides with wranglers are
available twice daily and riding instruction is
available.
Rates are American plan, excluding riding.
All of the 16 rooms and suites have private
baths. There is a saloon but no bar, and guests
are invited to bring their own bottles to the
ranch. Each room has a TV and refrigerator.
Rates for two range from about $185 to $200 per
day for the regular rooms, to $250 for the most
deluxe accommodations. Children are welcome at a
modest additional rate.
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Rancho Casitas
Prescott Highway (89), P.O. Box A-3, Wickenburg
AZ 85358, (520) 684-2628
An alternative to the other ranches which offer
American plan only is this small guest ranch,
operated by Louise Craig, offering
accommodations and riding on the European plan.
The accommodations include a full-equipped
kitchen. The casitas have fireplaces. Rates are
lower than the other ranches because of the lack
of food service. There are seven units with
fireplaces, with weekly maid service. The ranch
is closed during the hot summer season. For
information on rates and to make reservations,
call (520) 684-2628.
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Flying E Ranch
P.O. Box EEE, Wickenburg AZ 85358
(520) 684-2690
Located four miles west of Wickenburg, this
ranch operates from November to May, on the
American Plan. Lodgings can accommodate 32
people, giving the ranch a cozy feeling. 20,000
acres lies outside the ranch door for riding.
Other facilities include a pool, whirlpool, and
tennis courts. Food is served "family style" in
the ranch dining room and cookouts are
frequently held. This is a small, friendly ranch
with an attentive staff. Vi Wellik is the owner.
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Wickenburg
Camping
Hospitality RV Park
P.O. Box 2525, Wickenburg AZ 85358
(520) 684-2519
This RV park is located two miles east of the
main Wickenburg stoplight, on the highway to
Phoenix, U.S. 89, at milepost 112. It offers
pull-through spaces, full hookups, a laundry and
game room.
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