Nestled in the Strait of
Georgia---off the calm side of Vancouver Island---the
southern Gulf Islands offer relaxed holiday getaways in a
quiet, pastoral environment. Separated from the San Juan
Islands by just a little bit of water and the unseen U.S.
border, the Canadian Gulf Islands hark back to an earlier
age when people were close to the land and were more
aware of their natural surroundings.
Idyllic Isles
These islands lack much of the
sophistication and glitz of neighboring Vancouver, and
they do not have the English manor-house ambience of
Victoria. But that's not what we're looking for on these
islands in the strait. You should expect sparkling water,
quiet winding roads through lush farmland and forests,
with accommodations to suit the ambience: fine bed and
breakfast homes; some outstanding intimate restaurants
serving fresh West Coast cuisine; fascinating provincial
parks with cobble beaches; bird life, including bald
eagles; animal life, including island deer and killer
whales; hiking along the coastlines and through the
forests or golfing on some of the islands. These idyllic
isles offer a chance to get away to a more peaceful kind
of recreation, similar to that available on the
neighboring San Juan Islands---but with a Canadian
difference.
The most southerly of the islands are the
more populated and more accessible: Saltspring, Pender,
Mayne, Saturna and Galiano. These are reached by ferry
from Swartz Bay near Victoria or from Tsawwassen near
Vancouver on the mainland. They all have accommodations
and attractions for travelers, although Saltspring and
Galiano are more geared to tourist traffic. Pender is
actually two islands, joined by a bridge where a
peninsula was blasted away to create a narrow ship
passage.
The southern Gulf Islands are becoming
increasingly popular as residents of the Vancouver area
look for interesting weekend getaways in quiet
surroundings. Several new bed and breakfast inns have
opened in recent years, and the islands have continued
their tradition of serving fine food in distinctive
restaurants. They have become a haven for sea kayakers
who flock to the archipelago to paddle throughout the
quiet waters between the islands and to camp along the
shore in one of several provincial and local parks. The
islands also appeal to cyclists who can easily do a tour
of an island in a single day, using the rural sideroads,
which are free from heavy traffic.
The Island Environment
Like the San Juans to the south, the Gulf
Islands are composed primarily of sandstone and shale.
Only the southern part of Saltspring Island is volcanic
in nature.
Much of the shoreline of the southern
islands is rocky and rugged, often with cliffs, which the
sea erodes. Vegetation on the islands is primarily
Douglas fir, with groves of madrone (arbutus) and some
Garry oak. There is also some western red cedar. Salal is
the dominent plant in the underbrush, along with
salmonberry and huckleberry. Parks on the islands present
ample opportunity to walk through the forests. One of the
great benefits of visiting these islands is the wealth of
wildflower life on the spring meadows, including
stonecrop, blue camas and satin flower.
The pods of killer whales (orca) that
inhabit the north Puget Sound area also come to visit
these islands. It's a thrillling experience to watch
these families as they stop to feed on the abundant local
salmon, with fins piercing the calm waters betwen the
islands, and their frequent gliding through the surface
into the air. Harbor seals breed in Georgia Strait and
can be seen along the island coastlines, more likely from
a boat than from the shore.
Birding and Cycling
The Gulf Islands provide superb
opportunities for birding, with sea birds nesting
throughout the southern islands. Species include
cormorants, gulls, tufted puffins, guillemots and the
great blue heron. Should you stay overnight on one of the
islands, you'll no doubt be serenaded in the night by one
or more of the many loons who live in the area. Loons are
most populous in April and May when they are flying north
on the Pacific Flyway to their northern nesting grounds.
The king of Gulf Island birds is the bald eagle. Eagles
are common on the islands, and you'll see their huge
stick nests atop many trees along the shorelines.
There is a moderate pace on the islands,
which makes them perfect for cycling. I suggest that if
you have bikes, bring them along. You'll appreciate
leaving your car or RV at your campsite or inn and
exploring the country roads of the island at your leisure
by bicycle, or by taking leisurely walks along the quiet,
narrow roads or beside the water.
