|
The Queets River Valley
widens from its narrow source, as three major
tributaries feed glacier melt and abundant
rainwater into the main river. The river
receives water from three glaciers: the Queets,
and the Humes and Jeffers glaciers on Mount
Olympus. The river is one of the largest on the
Olympic Peninsula. This is a famed fishing
river, revered for its salmon and steelhead, and
also for rainbow and cutthroat trout.
|
This is a valley not widely visited by
tourists, except for the lower fishing areas. There has
been a deliberate attempt on the part of the Parks
Service to keep the upper parts of the valley as wild as
possible. Therefore, the Queets Trail offers one of the
best opportunities to experience a truly natural rain
forest. Because of the lack of facilities, it has become
a trail used mostly by backcountry hikers.
All of the existing trails and facilities
are accessed by the Queets River Road, which meets
Highway 101 seven miles east of the town of Queets. There
was settlement in the valley as early as the 1890s.
However, when the national park was created, the federal
government forced the departure of the stump ranchers and
other settlers from the valley.
The Queets Ranger Station is located
12.4 miles along the road. This station is open during
the summer months. The Queets Campground is
located beside the river at 13.4 miles, in a forest of
Sitka spruce. The sites are suitable for tents, RVs and
trailers (with a limit of 21 feet). The road ends at the
confluence of the Sams and Queets rivers.
Day Hike in the Queets Valley
The Queets Campground Loop Trail is the
only short trail in the Queets River area. The trailhead
is located just west of the campground entrance, on the
north side of the road. The trail wanders through forest,
and through old farmers' fields. After crossing the
second meadow, you'll see the Queets Ranger Station. The
trail then crosses the road, and wanders through
second-growth forest. Remaining stumps are seen, and you
will probably hear the roar of logging trucks in the
distance. Passing through a stand of alders covered with
white lichen, the trail passes into a forest of spruce
and into rain forest with thick vegetation, particularly
salmonberry. The large formation atop the ridge is
Klootchman Rock. The trail comes out at the end of Queets
River Road, a hike of three miles.
Quinault Rain
Forest
Draining most of the southwestern Olympics,
the Quinault River also has two branches. The East Fork
comes down from near Anderson Pass, tumbling down a long,
narrow valley. Near the head of the East Fork valley
stands the world's tallest western hemlock tree.
The East Fork joins the North Fork, and the
combined river flows through the broad Quinault Valley,
into Lake Quinault. This is a lovely natural lake created
by glacial action which formed the dam. The Lake sits at
200 feet above sea level. Below the lake, the river flows
through the Quinault Indian Reservation, and empties into
the Pacific. The north shore of the lake is in the
national park, while the south shore borders the national
forest. The west shore lies in the Quinault Indian
Reservation.
This is another fine rain forest. The lower
area near the lake receives 140 inches of rain each year,
while the upper parts get much more. The trees here are
enormous, growing to world record heights.
There are roads along both the north and
south shores of Quinault Lake. The North Shore road
departs from Highway 101, leading along the lake to the
Parks Service's Quinault Ranger Station. The main access
route to the rain forest attractions is the South
Shore Road. The road forms a Y at the west end. It is
found just south of the Quinault River, 16 miles north of
Humptulips, and 27 miles southeast of Queets.
Camping
The Quinault Loop Trail and
Willaby Creek Campground are located at the
1.8-mile mark on South Shore Road. The route continues
along the lake, providing access to two private resorts
and a ranger station, in the community of Quinault. Falls
Creek Campground is located just beyond the village. The
road leads northeast through a harvested area to
Cottonwood (primitive) Campground, entering
Olympic National Park at 12.1 miles. The rain forest
appears as North Shore Road meets South Shore Road.
The road continues, climbing through the
mossy rain forest, which includes stands of bigleaf maple
as well as spruce and Douglas-fir. Graves Creek Ranger
Station is located at 18.8 miles. This summer-only
station is the place to obtain backcountry hiking and
camping permits. Graves Creek Campground is
located near the ranger station in the fir and maple
forest. The road comes to an end just beyond the 19-mile
mark, at the head of the Enchanted Valley
Trail.
Most first-time visitors to the national
park tend to visit the Hoh Rain Forest, without exploring
the beauties of this more southerly rain forest. That's
too bad, because this too is a magnificent example of the
work of nature. Not only is there the lake, but several
Quinault trails lead through magnificent stands of huge
trees, including big-leaf maples with rich understoreys
of mosses and selaginella. Campers will appreciate the
quiet serenity of Graves Creek Campground&emdash;away
from traffic noises, located in a sublime setting.
Resorts
South Shore Road provides access to two
major resort operations: Lake Quinault Lodge and
Rain Forest Resort Village. The historic lodge is
one of those seemingly rustic park-style buildings which
were constructed during the first half of the century,
combining a natural ambience with comfortable
accommodations in the national forest. There's a fine
lobby with a stone fireplace, an excellent dining room
focused on northwestern cuisine, a swimming pool, and
canoes to rent with nature trails nearby. For information
and reservations, call (360) 288-2571 or 800-562-6672.
Rain Forest Village has an inn and cabins with fireplaces
and kitchens. The village complex includes an RV park
with full hookups. For information and reservations, call
(360) 288-2535, or 800-255-6936.
Quinault Day Hikes
The Quinault Loop Trail is located
in the national forest south of Lake Quinault, lying just
above the lake. The trail is a continuous loop with
several access points. A handy entry point is on South
Shore Road near Falls Creek Campground. From here, the
trail runs beside Falls Creek, past a bridge which leads
to the campground and a picnic area, and then to several
walk-in campsites (to the west). The trail then moves to
the lakeshore, past Quinault Lodge (another logical entry
point). The vegetation in this area is thick and wild,
and includes salmonberry and thimbleberry, skunk cabbage,
and hydrangea. Highlie Peak is in clear view, across the
lake.
The trail turns away from the lake at
Willaby Creek Campground, passing under the highway
bridge crossing Willaby Gorge. Now we enter the rain
forest, with an understory of sword and maidenhair ferns,
huckleberry, devil's club, and salmonberry. You''ll see
cedars, along with the spruces and firs. Climbing to the
junction with the Big Tree Grove Trail (also Quinault
Rain Forest Trail), the route then drops through a second
growth (post-fire) stand of western hemlock, and back
into the old-growth forest, getting more boggy as the
trail proceeds along a boardwalk. The trail meets the
Lodge Trail, crossing Falls Creek, and then crosses
another creek with tumbling water, returning to the South
Shore parking lot. The total loop is four miles, and is
probably the best way to spend an hour or so while
visiting the Quinault area, particularly if your time
here is limited.
Big Tree Grove Nature Trail is also
called the Quinault Rain Forest Trail. It begins on South
Shore Road, just west of Willaby Creek. The route climbs
through the Big Tree Grove, a fine stand of Douglas-fir,
about 500 years old. Ferns and oxtails cover the ground.
Other trees in this forest include hemlock, western red
cedar and spruce. This is a short trail, less than 0.6
mile long, meant to be enjoyed slowly. There are benches
placed along the pathway so that visitors may thoroughly
enjoy the inspirational feelings of contemplating one's
existence while sitting in a primeval rain forest. The
trail ends at its junction with the Quinault Loop Trail.
From there, you have the choice of retracing the walk, or
continuing along the loop trail to a point just east of
the starting point, past Willaby Gorge.
The Lodge Trail is also a very short
path starting across the road from Quinault Lodge,
climbing through a young hemlock forest, and then into an
older growth of western red cedar and Sitka spruce, with
a few Douglas-firs. The usual ferns and huckleberry are
here, in addition to oxalis. Running above Falls Creek,
the trail ends at the Quinault Loop Trail. Again, you
have your choice of return routes to the lodge area.
Graves Campground Nature Trail is a
circle route leading from and to Graves Creek Campground.
Only a mile long, the path begins at the river. We
suggest that you take a counterclockwise direction,
passing through big-leaf maples before crossing a gravel
bar in what used to be a river channel. The forest is
composed mostly of second growth spruce and fir. The path
then crosses river flats with rain forest, thick with
bigleaf maples, before returning to the starting point
through a stand of Douglas-fir.
The Olympic
Seashore
The Pacific Ocean is untamed as it crashes
against the Olympic shore. Access to the coast is
limited, except by taking long hikes. However, there are
several access points where one may hike to and along the
coast. One of the most scenic and rewarding areas is
found in the Lake Ozette region, at the end of
Lake Ozette Road. To get there, turn onto Highway 113
which meets Highway 101 (Olympic Highway) at the village
of Sappho. After two miles, turn west (left) and drive
along Highway 112 which leads to Clallam Bay and Seku.
Turn left onto the Lake Ozette road. The Cape Alava
Trail (the northern route) leads 3.3 miles to the
coast.
The southern route (Sand Point Trail) runs
three miles to the beach. Both trails lead mostly along
wooden boardwalks, through a wonderful wildlife area. For
a 9.3-mile loop hike, walk along the beach between the
two entry points. This is an area long occupied by Native
Americans, with evidence of their habitation in Native
American petroglyphs. You'll see Ozette Island and Cape
Alava, the western-most point in the contiguous
forty-eight states.
To the south, State Route 110 leads to the
ocean shore and the Native American community of La
Push. A trail leads south from the end of the road,
along the beaches and headlands, to Third Beach, Taylor's
Point and Scott's Bluff. It is possible to walk south,
along the beaches, and along pieces of coastal trails
across the more dangerous headlands. A handy and
necessary guide to the coastal trails is the Parks
Service folder "Strip of Wilderness," available at the
ranger stations and visitor information centers. Hikes
available include the 1.8-mile stretch from Cape Alava
to Shi Shi Beach; the North Wilderness Coast Hike
(from Ozette to Rialto Beach, via Cape Alava), a walk of
21 miles; and the South Coast Wilderness Hike,
from the Third Beach trailhead to Oil City, a rugged
journey of 17.3 miles. Backcountry permits are free and
must be obtained from a ranger station before undertaking
overnight backcountry trips.
Kalaloch Lodge is found near the
southern end of the coastal strip, beside Highway 101.
South Beach is at the extreme southwestern edge of
the park. Short beach trails lead from Highway 101 to
Ruby Beach (to the north), with six additional trails
leading south, to Beaches One and Two, and South Beach.
You'll find beaches with tidepools, and beachcombing is
particularly rewarding in this area. Clamming is
permitted, in season and with a license. There's a park
ranger station across the highway from the lodge. The
lodge has overnight accommodations, a dining room and
coffee shop. For information and reservations, call (360)
962-2271.
Dosewallips
Located in the eastern Olympics, opposite
the Hood Canal, the Dosewallips River has three
tributaries, the North and South forks and Silt Creek
which has its headwaters in the Eel Glacier on Mount
Anderson. Several high mountains enclose the valley,
including Anderson and the "Five Peaks," Wellesley,
Sentinel, Lost, Fromme and Claywood. This is a land of
steep peaks and large meadows including the spectacular
Thousand Acre Meadow.
Highway 101 runs along the eastern slopes
of the Olympics, providing access by Dosewallips River
Road (Forest Road 2610).
The road cuts through the Olympic National
Forest, through recently logged areas and second growth
forest. Approaching the nine-mile mark, the road enters
virgin forest. Elkhorn Campground is situated in a
large stand of Douglas-firs beside the river. As the road
climbs high above the river, it enters Olympic National
Park, passing Dosewallips Falls. The road drops before
reaching Dosewallips Campground (14.7 miles). Here
are campsites and a picnic area located in a red cedar
grove. The Dosewallips Ranger Station is located
at the end of the road (14.9 miles).
Several lengthy trails have been
constructed in the Dosewallips wilderness areas,
including the Dosewallips Trail, which provides
access to the Thousand Acre Meadow, and beyond to a
wildflower basin north of Sentinel Peak, and up to
Hayden Pass (15.4 miles), where one can savor one
of the best views of the Olympic Peaks.
